Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Some things Tajik

I feel like I owe everybody a huge multiple-day recap. Whatever happened to us? Did the KGB get us? Did we get lost in the Pamirs (unfortunately not yet).

Mostly it boils down to: To find a solid internet connection is pretty difficult in Dushanbe and not having internet at home (i.e. the appartment where we are staying) makes it even more difficult.

Otherwise I could have told you about my opportunity to take a kick-boxing lesson with the Tajik national champion, or the cop that knocked on our door in the dark whom we told to 'get lost' and he did. I could have also told you about several excellent meetings with the big bosses of Aga Khan Foundation that might get the ball rolling for some projects over here.

"But, Matthieu, my friend... what are you thinking? Of course we will put you on the helicopter."

So there we stood, yesterday bright and early, in front of our appartment waiting to be picked up for our heli ride to the mountains. When noone showed, we called the office: "Oh, actually you didn't make it on the list." Well, thanks for letting us know! In the end there were clouds and rain in Khorog and the flight got cancelled anyways. Now we are waiting for our next chance on Friday.

But I have to say to my surprise, Dushanbe is a very nice place to be 'stuck' at. It's very laid back and green with parks and fountains everywhere. People are real friendly and the food is delicious with fresh salads, soups and endless skewers of grilled meats.

Matthieu: It almost feels a bit like Munich in summer.

What he means is that there are plenty little outdoor cafes, mostly just some tables in the grass by the roadside, where you can enjoy a cold beer with your kebab and just watch the world pass by.

***

Yesterday we ventured into the countryside, just outside of Dushanbe. Rolling green hills give way to views on snowy peaks, and friendly villagers invite you for a cup of tea and a bowl of creamy homemade yoghurt... sounds like the description of a tourism brochure? Well, yes (it was meant to), but nevertheless it's the reality of being a tourist in Tajikistan. It's a beautiful place. And thanks to the Russians there are little playgrounds with rusty swings and derelict slides on almost every corner. I had no idea the capital of ex-soviet Tajikistan would be such a child-friendly place.

Tonight we'll go and see a British reggae band at the American embassy. Dushanbe is a happening place, believe me!

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